Bombay Duck, a unique and enigmatic delicacy, has a history steeped in tradition and odorous controversy. Originating from the shores of India, this pungent-smelling fish has captivated palates and shut windows for decades.
Historically, Bombay Duck was highly prized in Indian cuisine, particularly in the coastal regions of Maharashtra and Gujarat. Named after the Bombay (now Mumbai) region and its association with the British colonial era, the fish gained popularity as a staple food item and export commodity.
The fish, Harpadon nehereus, also known as "bombil" in Marathi and "bummalo" in Bengali, belongs to the lizardfish family. It's commonly dried and salted before being consumed.
One distinctive feature of Bombay duck is its strong odour, which can be off-putting to some people. This odour is due to a compound called trimethylamine, which is also found in other types of fish.
This compound is produced by bacteria breaking down the fish's proteins during decomposition. Because the Bombay duck fish has a higher protein content (62g per 100g raw) compared to some other fish species, it tends to have a stronger smell when it starts to decompose. In comparison, tuna has around 23.3g of protein per 100g.
Despite its strong smell, Bombay duck is considered a delicacy in many Indian cuisines, particularly in the regions where it is caught. It's often prepared in various ways, including frying or adding it to curries.
As the fish is not native to South African waters, it is more commonly bought dried, imported in neat, vacuum sealed packs.
There have been a few theories as to where the fish got its unusual name. The most plausible is that when the fish became a popular delicacy within the interior of India, it was dried and shipped on the Bombay Mail train to other parts of the sub-continent.
The Marathi and Hindi word for “mail” is Dak, which led to the train being known colloquially as the Bombay Dak train.
Soon, the train became synonymous with the pungent smell of the fish which later became known as the Bombay Dak fish.
This was anglicised into Bombay Duck by the British in India.
Reminiscing on the Chatsworth Memory Lane Facebook page, Angela Naidoo commented “the day I fried Bombay Duck at my daughters kitchen, I ended up outside with the frying pan and all! Never attempted it ever again!”
IOL